Some folks have been curious as to how I create my leaf composite images, so I thought I would show a few of the steps I take. Note: a working knowledge of Photoshop is probably required to follow along. I…
Another short video, demonstrating the making of one of my pieces from my solo show “Shift”. Sorry…no sound on this one!
This is a short video demonstrating a few of the steps I take when creating one of my photo encaustic pieces. Turn your speakers on and enjoy the relaxing music! Email me if you have any questions about what you…
Here is a list and links to many of the sites I have used to learn about different apps and techniques. iPhoneart.com – on this and other sites like it, many of the artists share what apps they used to create…
This is the last video on image organization. This time I am using Lightroom, which is the program I primarily use when uploading my images. I have really only skimmed the surface on this topic, and like everything else in…
This video demonstrates the steps to take if you use Elements to upload and organize your images. If you use Adobe Bridge, click here: Bridge I have to admit, this was the first time I ever explored this subject in…
Pretty sure this is one of my longest videos. There is a lot of information and I tried to go slow, but if you have no experience with Adobe Bridge, you may want to watch this a few times. I…
Here are a couple of videos demonstrating hand coloring in Photoshop CS5 and Elements 9.
Even if you are using Elements, watch the CS video first and then the Elements version. In the first video I share a very simplistic and basic explanation of masking as it relates to digital hand coloring. The whole subject of layer masks is quite a bit more extensive than my description, but for this topic, it might help you understand the concept a little better.
I mention in the first video that one of the reasons I sometimes use these techniques, is that it gives me a starting point for when I do hand color with the pastels. It’s cheaper and easier to experiment in the computer than on actual prints.
I tried to find some information on digital hand coloring using iPhoto, but was unsuccessful. I am not sure if you can do it in iPhoto, but if any of you know a way to hand color using that program, please let me know.
Watch this video first:
Depth of field is an important creative tool and understanding how to use it will greatly enhance your photography. This is especially true when it comes to photographing flowers.
Depth of field is the term used to describe the amount of sharpness in an image.
- A “shallow depth of field” means your subject will be sharp, but anything in the foreground or background will appear out of focus. This comes in handy when you want to isolate your subject from the background.
- Images with a lot of “depth of field” will appear sharp throughout.
Many of you probably already know this, but it can’t hurt to review a few basic terms and show some examples.
- Your depth of field is determined by your aperture (lens opening).
- A higher number such as F 22, is a small lens opening which provides for greater depth of field. (There is a scientific explanation for all of this, but it’s not necessary to know what it is to understand the concept. Let me know if you are curious about this and I will find that information for you.)
- Something to consider: While F22 will give you a greater depth of field, it is not always the sharpest aperture to use. If you stop down too far, diffraction may occurr. Diffraction is a loss of sharpness or resolution caused by photographing with small f/stops. Anytime you look or photograph through small holes you get diffraction. Squint your eyes – that’s diffraction! If you’re shooting flat subjects, the sharpest aperture is usually around f/8.
- A smaller number like F 5.6, is a large opening which will give you a shallow depth of field.
- Depth of field is also determined by the camera-to-subject distance. The closer you are, the less depth of field you will have. (See the flower example below)
- Keep in mind that your shutter speed is directly related to the aperture. A small opening lets in less light, so setting your camera at F 22 will require a much longer shutter speed.
- An aperture setting of F 5.6 will let in more light and decrease the amount of time the shutter needs to be open.
This is where a picture is worth a thousand words:
In a studio setting, determine how much of your image you want in focus and set your F stop accordingly. If you want to throw your background out of focus, set it at F 5.6 and get close to your subject.
When you are outdoors there are more variables to consider. If you want an image with great depth of field, setting your aperture at F 22 will increase the amount of time the shutter will have to remain open. This could be a problem if there is even the slightest breeze. The good news is, most of the time when you are shooting outside you don’t want a distracting background. You want to have your subject sharp and the background blurry.
Setting your camera to F5.6 or a similar aperture should allow for enough light to enter and give you a fast shutter speed, decreasing the chance that a breeze will ruin your shot.
The best way to understand all of this is to simply go out and experiment with it…………….
Remember my post about making your own backdrop? Thanks to some workshop students, I have photos showing it’s use in an outdoor setting.
It can also be useful to have fabric with you when photographing flowers outside. In this shot, I had a beautiful rose blooming in my yard but as you can see, behind the flower was a wrought iron fence and my neighbor’s side yard. I simply draped the black cloth over the fence and had an instant backdrop.
Sometimes it’s difficult to find simple backgrounds when you are outside, but being creative and carrying around a few simple props can go a long way